Paddling in search of whales and orca – Johnstone Straits
After a summer leading an epic canoe expedition in the Canadian Peel and Yukon catchments (Unpeeled Expedition) our Director, Cory Jones, look a few days to relax on a solo sea kayaking trip on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island in search of whales and orca.
Paddling in search of whales and orca Cory travelled to Telegraph Cove situated in a sheltered inlet at the northern end of Johnstone Strait, across from the Broughton Archipelago. Telegraph Cove is a community of about 20 inhabitants, on Vancouver Island located approximately 210 kilometres northwest of Campbell River. It is a former fishing and cannery village that has become a launch point for eco-tourism.
A century ago all that was here was a one-room telegraph shack from which loggers, fishermen and pioneers would stay in touch with the outside world. Telegraph Cove grew a little bigger when a fish saltery, sawmill, school and general store were built over the years.
There are a number of outfitters there and Cory hired a sea kayak for five days to explore the area around Johnstone Straits and Blackfish Sound which form part of the Broughton Archipelago Provincial Park. Broughton Archipelago Park, B.C.’s largest marine park, consists of a wonderful collection of dozens of undeveloped islands and islets situated at the mouth of Knight Inlet on the west side of Queen Charlotte Strait near the north end of Vancouver Island. A multitude of islands provides park visitors sheltered waters with a backdrop of the magnificent coastal mountains to the east and the waters of Queen Charlotte Strait to the west.
These islands have been utilized by First Nation peoples for generations and there is ample evidence of their extensive use of the area. The park is famed for its white beaches for camping and world class whale viewing opportunities.
Cory hired his boat and the appropriate safety equipment and with the aid of knowledge from local kayak guides set off for a few nights camping on amazing paddle beaches, and paddling in search of whales. Weather forecasts were provided by Cory’s InReach and Canadian Marine weather forecasts which were very accurate.
Cory has made a short video about his trip.
The mountain scenery was spectacular and the seashores were covered in forest down to the strand line.
Humpback whale recovery (Paddling with whales)
Cory was impressed at seeing humpbacks on each of the five days he was kayaking. Paddling with whales was truely mindblowing. The Northeast Pacific population of humpback whales, which spend much of their time in B.C. waters during the summer months, has experienced a remarkable recovery in the past few decades. They had been hunted to near extinction by the mid 1900s but there are now anywhere from 3,000 to 5,000 humpbacks in B.C. waters. There are now so many whales in inshore waters that they are a hazard to ships. The are listed as a species of special concern, now frequent fishing hot spots, shipping lanes, and busy harbours in B.C, where they are likely to run into nets or collide with boats.
Orca and rubbing beaches
Johnstone Strait is home to the largest resident pod of killer whales (orcas) in the world, with a population of approximately 200 whales. They are attracted by the annual salmon runs that funnel through the strait beginning in late June.
Pods of orcas also come to this part of Johnstone Strait each summer to rub themselves on the barnacle-encrusted rocks, pebbles and gravel seafloor at Robson Bight.
Robson Bight (Michael Biggs) Ecological Reserve, 20 kms south of Telegraph Cove in Johnstone Strait, provides ocean adventures with a sure thing when it comes to whale watching. Access to Robson Bight Provincial Park is prohibited. Whale watching is restricted to access in Johnstone Strait you cant get there by road, rail or plane. Only by water.
There were some issues to be aware of
- Black bears occasionally travel through this chain of islands, so using good bear sense is essential. One night a black bear swan over to the island Cory was camping on. A good deal of shouting and pan lid banging prompted it to swim off to another island to look for food.
- Fresh water is very difficult to come across in the Broughton Archipelago, so be sure to bring all that you require. Any surface water you may find in the park must be well boiled, filtered or treated prior to consumption
- Cruise ships moving along the Inside Passage are a kayak hazard
- Strong winds and rough waters can pick up quite suddenly
- Dense fog can also be very common in this region during the summer months. This makes the need to be aware of tide changes and carry the correct nautical charts vital.
Comments are closed